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Note From The Captain: Playing safe or as some may call it, defensive, is one of the most effective and dominant ways of winning in any 8 or 9 ball competition. An average shooter with outstanding safety techniques will consistently win a higher percentage of matches as opposed to a good shooter who lacks the concept. If you don't agree then keep this thought in mind, you can not sink what you can not see. The following is a compilation of all the safety techniques I've developed, researched, used and continue to use. Practice them and I guarantee your game will be elevated almost immediately to another level. In addition, please feel free to contact me with your questions and comments.

Tips on Safety Plays


1. Tips on safety play - Submitted by Joe D'Aguanno
2. Game plan for safety play - Submitted by Buddy Lory
3. Advanced safety play with multiple objectives - Submitted by Anonymous


The Whole Breakdown

The frozen bank safety removal shot.
The frozen ball safety removal shot.
Using draw to play safety.
Using follow to play safety.
Using stop to play safety.
Using carom to play safety.
Banking to safety.
The three bank pattern safety.
Sinking with safe.
Using safe to force a shot.
One bank safe.
Roll up frozen safe.
Huck shot safe.
Breaking safeties.
Pick up the ball and give it to your opponent.  
The safety scratch.  
Three in a row safe.  
Frozen bank and ball safe.  








Tips On Safety Play


Submitted by Joe D'Aguanno

Good safety play will win you more pool games than any other technique that you will learn.  I make this statement with the assumption that you are capable of running at least 3 or 4 balls when you have ball in hand or an open shot.  Good safeties frustrate your opponent and often results in ball in hand for you.  Probably the most important tip I can give you on playing a good safety is to try to precisely control where either the cue ball or the object ball ends up but not both.  You do need to be aware of general direction where the ball that you are not trying to control is going.  It doesn't do any good to hide the cue ball and have the object ball roll around the table and end up where your opponent can easily hit it and play a better safety on you.  About 90% of the safeties I play involve controlling where the cue ball ends up rather than the object ball.

When the object ball is on or close to the rail mostly centered between pockets with the cue ball at a steep acute angle (90 to 60 degrees) to the shot a thin soft cut with english usually works best.  Inside english on the cue ball will keep the object ball from moving very far after it strikes the rail.  Outside english will make the object ball roll farther.  As the object ball is stationary in this type of shot it will not move very far as there is very little transfer of energy from the cue ball to the object ball.  The cue ball on the other hand will travel quite a distance because it retains most of the energy gained from the impact of the cue.  As you are shooting the shot soft you will have much greater control of the cue ball and where it ends up.

Thin cuts often work when the object ball is not close to the rail.  Just shoot softly and use english if necessary to change the direction of the cue ball to bury it behind a cluster of balls or leave it on the other end of the table.

If you have a straight on shot where the object ball is close to another ball shoot a stop shot to keep the cue ball behind the second ball. Of course you don't want to shoot the stop shot hard because the object ball will probably roll around the table and make itself visible to the cue ball.  In this case shoot soft draw just hard enough where the cue ball will quit spinning backwards when it strikes the object ball.  The end result is the same as a stop shot using center ball with no english. 

If you are playing a weaker player in a handicap match that where they are under rated and you have to give them a game or 2 on the wire there are 2 methods that will help you win.  In this case we are talking about a 5 or 6 rated player that actually shoots 6 or 7 speed (Arizona ratings that goes from 4 to 10) and you are either a 7, 8 or 9.  The first method is very simple.  Play as many safeties as you have to until you get to a point where you can comfortably run out the table.  The other method is to simply give this player a shot they can make early in the game.  The huge majority of underrated 6 or even 7 rated players can't run out the table with either ball in hand or an open shot.  After they make 3 or 4 balls you should have no problem finishing the rack.

Credits : Contents, concepts and images Copyright 2004, Joe D'Aguanno. This information may be shared freely so long as the Copyright notice is included. If any contents or images are used in any commercial way, permission must be obtained from Joe D'Aguanno.


Game Plan For Safety Play


Submitted by Buddy Lory

 After deciding to play a safe, a lot of players have no idea of what to do next. Listed below are some of the criteria I use for executing a safety and hints for good safety play.

Criteria:

1.  Snooker or hide opponent so he cannot shoot directly at the object ball.

2.  Do not put the object ball near a pocket.

3. If the situation dictates that you cannot hide or snooker the opponent. Leave him a bank; preferably long one or a short bank with a bad angle.

4. On certain safeties leaving a long straight in shot will work.

5. Leave the cue ball on the rail or cushion, this will cut down the area on the cue ball he can hit.

6. Another good safety is to leave your opponent over a ball (jacked up), where he is forced to elevate the butt of the cue.

Hints:

1. Travel of the cue ball or the object ball should be kept to a minimum. If both balls are traveling long distances they are harder to control. I usually pick one or the other, if I choose a cue ball safety I will hit object ball thin (little movement) then try to place the cue ball in a safe position. If I choose an object ball safe I will stop or stun the cue ball (little movement)  shooting the object ball to a safe position.

2. When shooting a soft safety where both balls are close together and will not travel far, use a very short stroke. Using a long stroke will make it difficult to stop the cue stick. Try this, using a long stroke hit the cue ball and make it travel around 1 or 2 inches, very hard if not impossible to do. Now try the same shot with a very short stroke.

I cannot count the number of times I witnessed games being won with a good safety. Defense is just as much a part of playing high level pool as is running out. Armed with these criteria and hints I hope your safety play will improve.

Credits : Student and teacher of pool.


Advanced Safety Play With Multiple Objectives


Submitted by Anonymous

Safety play is essential with most pocket billiard games, especially 8-ball, which we'll concentrate on here. Most mid-level players have a basic understanding of safeties, but few achieve successful safety shots when an important game is on the line.

The key difference between a typical league-level safety shot and a professional safety shot is that the professional shot achieves two or more things. Simply hooking your opponent behind a ball is not sufficient is most competitive scenarios. We've all had instances in games where we hook an opponent, and they simply kick the cue ball off of a rail into their ball. These games usually result in the opponents kicking at their balls until one of them finally has a shot at something. Again, most average players at this point are only trying to avoid a foul, and any goals or plans on how to run the table and win the game are forgotten.

The key to safety play is not only hooking your opponent and making him try a difficult shot, but improving your own table as well. For instance, your opponent, playing solids, may have his three-ball blocking a pocket with four of your striped balls sitting around it in a traffic jam. One option for you is to attempt to cheat one of your balls around the three-ball, or carom your ball off of the three and into the pocket. Depending on how the three-ball sits, this might be the best option. But sometimes there is no way to get your balls into that pocket, and out of frustration a typical player will attempt to spread the balls to another part of the table, or try a very difficult cut shot into another pocket.

A safety option for this situation is what I call 'stealing your opponent's shot'. What you want to accomplish, of course, is to take your opponent's three-ball shot (what he might think of as his 'insurance' ball, or 'goalie' ball) away from him by pocketing it yourself! This is the first goal. The second goal is to free up that pocket for your own balls. The third goal is to hide the cue ball amongst your own balls, hopefully glueing it to one or more of them so your opponent has to attempt a two- or three-rail kick to get to his own balls (remember, he doesn't have his easy three-ball to shoot anymore). You must also, obviously, carom the cue ball off of one of your own balls and then into his three-ball to make a legal hit. This type of shot is very simple, and advanced players know it well, but it is one of those options average players simply don't see, and is a perfect example of accomplishing several things with one shot.

Another example is a ball-in-hand situation. Your opponent has ran all of his balls but hooked himself on the eight-ball. After his foul, you have ball-in-hand. All of your balls are spread out well except for three balls in a cluster along a rail. Many times a player will attempt a break out shot by slamming a ball into a pocket and sending the cue ball flying into the cluster. This is unwise for at least two reasons: hitting hard makes the balls do unpredictable things, and 'breaking up' the balls at that velocity might very well form other clusters somewhere else on the table.

An option here, depending on how the cluster sits, is to 'tap' the cluster at fairly close range, again accomplishing multiple goals: your cluster is broken (at a manageable speed so you can somewhat control where the balls end up on the table), and you freeze the cue ball in a spot where your opponent has to pull off a three rail kick shot with his cue at a sixty-degree angle just to avoid giving you another ball in hand!

There are countless ways this principle applies, especially is position-oriented games such as eight-ball and one-pocket. Against a skilled opponent, every shot must take into account multiple objectives. On a crowded seven-foot table, an expert player playing eight-ball, or nine-ball for that matter, will not attempt to run his balls until he has everything right where he wants it. This may mean taking care of a cluster, clustering his opponent, adjusting a key ball, etc. I've known a few players who, if they deem it necessary, will, with a wide-open table, play four evil safeties in a row in order to adjust the ball spread. By evil I mean safeties in which my cue ball was frozen to at least one of his balls or a rail, and virtually no legal shot was available.

When playing safe, always take into account all the factors: Where will my balls be after this shot? Where will my opponent's ball be? Is he just going to safety me back?

Also, give yourself leeway. Don't attempt a shot which, if your speed is off just a little bit, your opponent will have an easy run-out. A good benefit of multiple-objective safeties is that even if one of the goals isn't met, the other one probably will be.

Finally, always ask yourself how the shot is benefitting you, not just how it will hurt your opponent. Safety play requires foresight, not just making your opponent shoot a difficult shot.

Credits : 15 years of shooting balls into pockets, three years of actually playing pool.